This is a free version of my Equinox Top Crochet Pattern. This is a size-inclusive crochet top pattern that can be made in ANY size with a variety of customizations! Continue reading for the instructions and the story behind this pattern.

This crochet pattern is completely customizable, from the size/fit to the style. Make it as a bralette or a crop top, with straps that can either criss-cross in the back for a strappy look, or tie behind your neck halter style.
This cute, size-inclusive crochet top can be made in literally ANY SIZE! Follow the measure-yourself instructions on this page to make a custom top that fits you perfectly.

If you’d prefer a pre-sized pattern for this top, you can purchase a premium copy from my Etsy, Ribblr, or Ravelry shops. The premium pattern includes both pre-sized and measure-yourself versions of this pattern in a beautifully designed PDF that you can download and print. The Ribblr pattern includes a bonus e-pattern using Ribblr’s revolutionary interactive crochet pattern format. Every purchase helps support my business so I can continue creating patterns for crochet lovers like you!
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For this design, I incorporated pretty lacey details in the straps and band, and a corset structure that tightens to hug your body perfectly and comfortably. ♡
This top is named Equinox, to celebrate the welcoming of autumn & spring. This multi-seasonal design looks great whether you’re pairing it with flowy skirts in the springtime or wearing it with your favorite cardigan & jeans in the fall.

Yarn:
This size-inclusive crochet top can be made using any yarn of your choice! I make mine using Lily Sugar ‘n Cream cotton yarn. I prefer using 100% cotton yarn to make my tops and bralettes because it tends to be more sturdy and supportive than cotton blends or acrylics. I personally think this design works best with yarns that don’t have too much stretch. Less stretchy yarn will help keep the band of your top tight & conform to your body once it’s laced up in the back.
I especially love Lily Sugar n’ Cream because they have a variety of beautiful colors. It’s always been my go-to yarn for making tops!
More recommendations:
Bernat Handicrafter is a perfect substitute. It’s 100% cotton, worsted-weight, and it comes in a variety of pastel, bright, and neutral shades.
Dishie from Knit Picks is a super close alternative. It’s 100% cotton, worsted-weight yarn that comes in a huge variety of solid colors and multicolored blends.
Paintbox Yarns Recycled Cotton Worsted is another one of my favorite substitutions. This yarn is made from 100% recycled materials and comes in a variety of gorgeous shades.

Skill Level:
I consider this to be a beginner/intermediate-level crochet pattern because of the somewhat complicated assembly structure, however, I’ve included tons of photos to help make it easier and more beginner-friendly. Even if you’ve never crocheted a top before, this pattern will help guide you through designing your own custom piece for a perfect, super-comfortable fit.

If you’d like to try a simpler crochet top pattern first, I recommend using my Sunday Morning Bralette pattern.
Materials & Measurements:
For this pattern, you’ll need yarn, a crochet hook, stitch markers, scissors, and a yarn needle for weaving in ends.
This size-inclusive crochet top pattern will be made using the yarn/hook of your choice and constructed specifically to fit your body. This pattern works best with cotton & cotton blends in a medium or light weight.
This pattern does not include specific stitch counts, sizes, gauges, or finished measurements as it will be made measure-yourself style and constructed specifically to fit your body.
For your reference, I used Lily Sugar’n Cream cotton yarn and a 4.5mm hook. To make a medium-sized top, I used 1 ball (120yds) for a bralette and 2 balls (240yds) to create a crop top with a longer band. For a 5XL, I used 3 balls (360yds) for a bralette and 4 balls (480yds) for a crop top.
If you’d prefer to use my pre-sized pattern with specific materials/yardage requirements, finished measurements, gauge, and stitch/row counts, you can purchase a copy from my shop! The paid pattern includes a downloadable, ad-free PDF copy of both measure-yourself & pre-sized (XS-5X) instructions.
Key:
ST/STS: Stitch/Stitches
CH: Chain
SC: Single Crochet
SC2TOG: Single Crochet 2 Stitches Together
DC: Double Crochet
INC: Increase
SK: Skip
SL ST: Slip Stitch
V-ST: V Stitch
FO: Fasten Off
I’ve included instructions for the V-ST in the “STRAPS” section. If you’re not familiar with any of the other stitches used in this pattern, I would recommend looking up a YouTube video with the name of the crochet stitch for assistance.
Notes:
- This is a beginner/intermediate level crochet pattern
- Pattern is written in US crochet terms
- The CH 1 at the beginning of each row does not count as a stitch.
- The CH 2 at the beginning of each row for the band DOES NOT count as a stitch. So, the 1st ST on these rows will NOT be skipped.
- The stitch count at the end of each row is shown in square brackets [ ]
- For all increases (INC), work 2 SC into the stitch below.
- INC x2, means increase into the next 2 stitches.
- I have not specified a wrong side or right side for this pattern. You can use whichever side you prefer.
- This is a size-inclusive crochet top pattern, and it is written in a measure-yourself style.
- This pattern does not include specific stitch counts, sizes, gauges, or finished measurements.
Pattern Structure:
This pattern is broken down into three sections: CUPS, BAND & STRAPS. The STRAPS section includes two variations for a “halter” or “criss-cross” style.
You’ll build the cups by increasing into the 2 middle stitches at the top of each row (see photo). I recommend using stitch markers to keep track of these stitches.

Using this measure-yourself version of the pattern, you will have to do a tiny bit of math & measuring once you reach the BAND section. But don’t worry, I’ll walk you through it! If you’d prefer to use my pre-sized pattern with specific stitch/row counts, you can purchase a copy from my shop!
Cups:
MAKE 2 CUPS
Create a foundation chain that extends from the bottom of your breast to the middle of your breast.
ROW 1: SC 1 in 2nd CH from hook and continue to SC 1 in each CH until you reach the last CH.
SC 4 in the last CH. Place stitch markers in the 2 center stitches of your SC 4. This will mark the middle stitches of the cup that you will work your increases into on the next row.
Working along the opposite side of the chain, SC 1 in each CH across.
You should end with an even number of sts in the row, with the same amount of sts on each side of your marked sts.

ROWS 2+: CH 1, turn. SC in each stitch across until you reach the 2 middle stitches at the top of the previous row. INC and place a stitch marker on the 2nd ST of the INC, INC in the next ST and place a stitch marker on the 1st ST of the INC. Continue to SC into each remaining stitch along the previous row.
You should end with an even number of sts in the row, with the same amount of sts on each side of your marked sts.
Repeat these steps for each row. Continue adding rows until the cup is wide enough to provide you with your desired amount of coverage.


Once the 1st cup is completed, cut the yarn and FO.
Once the 2nd cup is completed, DO NOT cut the yarn. Leave yarn attached to connect the cups.

Band:
Connecting the Cups:
STEP 1:
Lay your cups down in front of you and make sure they’re both facing the same direction. With the yarn still attached to the 2nd cup, CH 1 and SC evenly along the bottom of the cup. (Work 1 SC for every row-end)
Note: You should have twice the number of stitches along the bottom as there are rows in the cup. For example, if your cup has 15 rows, you should have 30 SC along the bottom.
STEP 2:
Once you reach the end, CH (about 1-7 CH) to create the space between your cups. USE AN ODD NUMBER OF STS.
SC 1 into the bottom corner of your other cup.
Note: When creating the chain between cups, you can adjust depending on how much space you need to fit you the best. I recommend keeping this chain on the shorter side; if you create too large of a gap between the cups, your top will not be as comfortable and supportive.
STEP 3:
Continue to SC evenly along the bottom of the cup. (Work 1 SC for every row-end)
STEP 4:
Cut the yarn and FO.
Add up the total stitch count along the bottom of your cups, including the chain between the cups. Make note of this number as you’ll need to use it in the next section.



Band Foundation:
Note: When creating the foundation of the band, you want to leave a gap in the back of the top that’s about 2″-6″ wide. This gap will be laced up with a strap to give the top a more adjustable, comfortable fit.
Start by measuring about 1″-3″ from the center of your back (straight down from your right shoulder blade) to the bottom corner of your breast (straight down from your right armpit). Keep your measuring tape straight along your normal bra line.
STEP 1:
Crochet a chain that meets the length you measured above.
Add or subtract a few STS as needed to ensure that the total stitch count of your band foundation will be an ODD multiple of 7. (Odd multiples of 7: 77, 91, 105, 119, 133, 147, 161, 175, 189)
Note: The band foundation will consist of the number of STS used in this chain (x2) plus the number of STS along the bottom of the cups (from STEP 4 of the CONNECTING THE CUPS section)
Example: In my sample, I have 63 STS along the bottom of my cups. For this step, I created a CH with 21 STS. My total stitch count for the band foundation will be 105. (21 x 2 = 42) (42 + 63 = 105)
Make note of the number of STS used in this chain as you will need to create an identical chain in STEP 4.
STEP 2:
Take your chain and SC 1 into the bottom corner of your connected cups.
STEP 3:
SC 1 into each ST along the bottom of your connected cups.
STEP 4:
Create another chain identical to the chain you created in STEP 1.




Band Rows:
To create your band, you’ll start with one row of SC, and the following rows will consist of a simple repeating shell pattern. The shell pattern is worked in multiples of 7 STS. The shell pattern will be worked as follows: DC 1, SK 2, work 5 DC into the next ST, SK 2, DC 1

ROW 1: CH 1, turn, SC 1 into the 2nd CH from hook, and continue to SC across, working 1 SC into each ST of the BAND FOUNDATION.
Note: you might want to double-check that your stitch count still equals the odd multiple of 7 that you determined in the previous section. This will ensure that the shell pattern crocheted in the next row is neat & centered along your band.

ROW 2: CH 2, turn, (do not skip the 1st ST), * DC 1, SK 2, work 5 DC into the next ST, SK 2, DC 1 * repeat from * to * until you reach the end of the row.

ROW 3: CH 2, turn, (do not skip the 1st ST), * DC 1, SK 2, work 5 DC into the next ST, SK 2, DC 1 * repeat from * to * until you reach the end of the row.
Note: the 5 DC will be worked into the center ST of the shell below.

REPEAT ROW 3 as many times as you need until your top reaches your desired length, or stop here for a shorter bralette band.
Suggested number of row repeats:
Repeat ROW 3 about 1-2 time(s) for a bralette
Repeat ROW 3 about 4-8 times for a crop top
Cut the yarn and FO. Weave in ends on the band and cups.
Straps:
Lay your bralette down in front of you with the band closest to you.

ROW 1: Make a slipknot. On either cup, locate the 2 middle STS on the last row. Remove your stitch marker from the middle ST on the right and move it 2 STS to the right. Insert your hook through this marked ST and pull your slipknot through.
CH 1, SC 1 into the same ST. SC 5 [6]




To create the V-ST on the following rows: DC 1, CH 2, DC 1 into the same space
ROW 2: CH 3, turn. SK the 1st 2 STS, V-ST in the next ST, SK 2, DC 1
ROW 3: CH 3, turn. V-ST into the CH 2 space below, DC 1 into the top of the CH 3 below
ROWS 4-6: Repeat ROW 3



ROW 7: CH 1, turn. SC 2, SC 1 into the CH 2 space below, SC 1, SC 1 into the top of the CH 3 below [5]
ROW 8: CH 1, turn. SC2TOG, SC 3 [4]
ROW 9: CH 1, turn. SC2TOG, SC 2 [3]
ROW 10: CH 1, turn. SC2TOG, SC 1 [2]
ROW 11: CH 1, turn. SC2TOG [1]


Leave your yarn attached. To complete your straps choose from the options below: HALTER STYLE or CRISS-CROSS STYLE
Halter Style:
The halter style features straps that will tie behind your neck, with a separate strap that laces up the back of your band.

Tip: use a larger crochet hook for the long chains to make your straps smoother and make the process faster!
Tip: make your chains a little longer at first. Once you try the top on, you can always adjust the straps by removing some of the excess length. However, if your straps are too short, it will be difficult to add more length.
STEP 1:
With your yarn still attached, create a long chain. Make sure the chain is long enough to tie behind your neck before cutting the yarn.
Cut the yarn and FO.
STEP 2:
Repeat the same steps on the other cup (from STRAPS ROW 1 to HALTER STYLE STEP 1).
Tip: to make your straps the same length, you can either count and repeat the number of CH you used on your 1st strap or measure them along a tape measure.
STEP 3:
To make your back strap, create another long chain. The length of your chain will depend on how many rows you have in your band and how many times you wish to cross the straps.
I recommend crossing the straps 1-2 times for a bralette.
I recommend crossing the straps 2-4 times for a crop top.
Ultimately, it’s up to you! Just make sure your straps are long enough to cross as many times as you choose and tie in a bow before cutting the yarn.
Cut the yarn and FO.



STEP 4:
Insert one end of your back strap into the right end of ROW 2 on your band. Insert the other end of your strap into the left end of ROW 2 on your band. Pull the ends all the way through and center your strap.
STEP 5:
Continue to lace your strap the same way you would lace up a sneaker, by criss-crossing and weaving the ends of your chain through the ends of every row, or every-other row of the band.
STEP 6:
Tie a knot at the ends of all your straps. Cut off any remaining yarn ends on your straps, and weave in any remaining yarn ends on your top. You’re all done!



Criss-Cross Style:
The criss-cross style features long straps that will cross behind your back and lace up through the back of the band.

Tip: use a larger crochet hook for the long chains to make your straps smoother and make the process faster!
Tip: make your chains a little longer at first. Once you try the top on, you can always adjust the straps by removing some of the excess length. However, if your straps are too short, it will be difficult to add more length.
STEP 1:
With your yarn still attached, create a long chain that will stretch across your back to the top of the band, and continue to CH until it is long enough to lace up the back of the band.
The length of the back lacing will depend on how many rows you have in your band and how many times you wish to cross the straps.
I recommend crossing the straps 1-2 times for a bralette.
I recommend crossing the straps 2-4 times for a crop top.
Ultimately, it’s up to you! Just make sure your straps are long enough to stretch across your back, cross as many times as you choose, and tie in a bow before cutting the yarn.
Cut the yarn and FO.
STEP 2:
Repeat the same steps on the other cup (from STRAPS ROW 1 to CRISS-CROSS STYLE STEP 1).
Tip: to make your straps the same length, you can either count and repeat the number of CH you used on your 1st strap or measure them along a tape measure.


STEP 3:
Insert the end of your right strap into the left end of ROW 2 on your band and pull through.
Insert the end of your left strap into the right end of ROW 2 on your band and pull through.
STEP 4:
Continue to lace your strap the same way you would lace up a sneaker, by criss-crossing and weaving the ends of your chain through the ends of every row, or every-other row of the band.
STEP 5:
Tie a knot at the end of each of your straps. Cut off the remaining yarn ends on your straps, and weave in any remaining yarn ends on your top. You’re all done!




Credits:
This pattern and all photos are the property of Noelebelle by Nina Noel. This free size-inclusive crochet top pattern is for personal use only and may not be redistributed or altered and sold. If you wish to sell your finished tops please sell small quantities only, and provide credit for my design along with a link to my website: https://noelebellecrochet.com

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For the band where we chain two and turn it says dont skip the first stitch. Does this mean to DC in the forst chain from the hook?
Hi! Normally when you’re working DC rows, you’ll skip the first stitch since the chain typically counts as your first DC stitch. However, that’s not the case with this pattern. The “CH 2” doesn’t count as a stitch, so you’ll want to work your 1st DC into the very 1st SC from the previous row.
I hope that makes sense! Let me know if you have any other questions!